FREE CITY — In a city built on contradictions — where opulence and ruin share an alley, and a five-star meal might be served beneath flickering lights or behind a steel-reinforced door — dining out is more than just a ritual. It’s survival, it’s rebellion, it’s art. Welcome to Free City, where flavor follows no rules and the best meals come with stories (and sometimes scars). From the smoke-choked haunts of the Saltmines to velvet-lined hideaways in Fresh Air, our correspondents spent weeks dodging rain, bribes, and gunfire to uncover the 30 most unforgettable places to eat in this chaotic, …